A tale of two mountains
Mount Coolum and Mount Ninderry are two very striking peaks visible from many parts of the Sunshine Coast, close to each other – only 10 kilometres as the crow flies – but very different in character and offering very different experiences for the eco adventurer.
They’re closely connected in the Dreamtime tale of the Gubbi Gubbi (Kabi Kabi) people. Both were rivals for the affection of Maroochy, a beautiful young woman. A fierce battle saw Coolum’s head knocked off into the ocean to become Mudjimba Island, Ninderry turned to rock, and Maroochy’s copious flow of tears forming the Maroochy River.
In geological parlance, they are remnants of past volcanic activity. They’re rough and rocky outcrops with near vertical sides and caution is needed if exploring close to their edges.
Looking south from the summit of Mt Coolum. Image John Burrows
Mt Coolum is the most accessible and the most popular. Many thousands take the reasonably easy climb to the top each year to enjoy a great vista – Cooloola National Park to the north, the Glasshouse Mountains to the south, Mt Ninderry and the Blackall Range to the west, and the vast infinity of the Pacific Ocean.
The mountain is 208 metres high, and only 1500 metres from the beach, and you probably won’t find such a high lookout so close to the ocean anywhere else in Queensland.
The starting point for the climb is in Tanah Street West, just off the David Low Way, five minutes walk from the bus stop. Sunbus has an excellent service - the 620 – which runs between Maroochydore and Noosa Heads every half hour.
A National Park information board mentions that Mt Coolum’s cliff edges provides habitat for the peregrine falcon, the fastest animal on earth. It can reach 200 kilometres per hour while diving on prey, and you may be lucky enough to witness this.
The track to the summit can be a little steep and rocky, but won’t present difficulties for anyone of average fitness and agility. It may be slippery if wet. Do observe warning signs where the track nears cliff edges. It’s about 800 metres to the top; allow two hours for the return trip.
There are some interesting rock formations as you ascend. Higher up there is montane heath, a rare vegetation type which occurs where the soil is too thin to support large shrubs and trees.
Then from the summit there are 360 degree views, just walk around a bit to find the best vantage points. The panorama includes extensive coastal development, especially to the south.
If things had worked out differently, the summit of Mt Coolum itself could have been afflicted in the same way. In 1986 the Maroochy Council wanted to allow a development involving a chair lift up the side of the mountain and restaurant, café, function room and other facilities at the top.
This was desecration in the eyes of local community groups, who nipped the proposal in the bud, then fought for Mt Coolum to be declared National Park, as it eventually was in 1990.
That important peregrine falcon habitat thus became protected, along with a host of botanical treasures. These include 40 per cent of all species of ferns in the world, as well as some plant species found nowhere else on the planet.
From Mt Coolum’s summit, there is a walking track down the western side, not as well maintained, but offering good views across cane fields to Mt Ninderry.
The western face of Mt Ninderry. Image John Burrows
Ninderry has a wilder character, and is more difficult to access. For the non-motoring minority, public transport can get you to Yandina, it’s then about an hour’s brisk walk to the trailhead.
From just east of where the Yandina-Coolum Road crosses the Maroochy River, turn up Collins Road to reach Ninderry Road, turn right and proceed for 2.2 kilometres until you reach Eucalyptus Crescent. There’s an unmarked concrete driveway on the right, which looks private, but leads up to a small car park and picnic shelter which is the start of the trail to Ninderry’s summit.
Now largely protected from development with Conservation Park status, the mountain is 304 metres heigh. It’s not an arduous walk to the top, although rocky and steepish in places, it should take about half an hour.
You’ll walk through attractive eucalyptus woodland, but views are limited until reaching the summit. As with Mt Coolum, there are wonderful panoramas, but you’ll need to scout around to find viewpoints. Spectacular cliffs are on the southern and western sides of the mountain. Be very careful if approaching the edges.
To the south there’s a great outlook over the Maroochy River snaking towards the ocean, and immense expanses of land once used for growing sugarcane, now mostly unused since the local sugar mill closed down. Mt Coolum dominates the eastern landscape, with the Pacific Ocean providing a fine back drop.
It’s good if you can climb both Mt Coolum and Mt Ninderry in quick succession, to better appreciate how each stands in relationship to the other.
Enjoy both – but keep in mind the fragility of our natural wonders, and be a minimal impact visitor.
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