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Canoeing the Upper Noosa River. Image: John Burrows

Canoeing the Noosa River, with blue sky and every detail of riverbank vegetation exactly mirrored on the river's surface, is an unforgettable experience. The entire river is worth exploring, but it's the upper reaches, contained in the Great Sandy National Park, which attract the eco-adventurer.

Here you'll find a wilderness which is about as pristine as you can get. In fact, the river always scores top marks in the South East Queensland Waterways report card, compiled each year after the health of all the rivers in the region has been assessed. It scores so well because much of the catchment is in national park, where there's little riverbank erosion and no upstream land clearing or other damaging developments which could increase sediment loads, muddying and polluting the river.

Despite its status as the cleanest river in southeast Queensland, the river does have a murky water colour. It's been stained by tannins, organic nutrients leached from the ubiquitous melaleuca. This gives the river a dark appearance, almost black in parts and on a calm day results in the most amazing reflections.

River Reflections. Image: John Burrows

A very satisfying and eco-responsible way to experience the river is by canoe or kayak. You can see quite a bit on a day trip, but a longer visit is needed to enjoy the river's many moods. The recommended starting point is from Lake Cootharaba. Canoe hire is possible from both Boreen Point (accessible by public transport, a $2 taxi service running from Tewantin) and Elanda Point, a few kilometres further north.

The lake's huge expanse of space and light is glorious, but to avoid windy conditions, which make for uncomfortable paddling, it's best to leave as early in the day as possible. Make sure you have directions to help navigate the waterways.

It's worth stopping at the Kinaba information centre at the top of the lake, then detouring up Kin Kin Creek, which enters the river from the west. Another detour is possible into Lake Como.

The Noosa River then enters a narrow winding area known as the Everglades. Being less exposed to wind, this is where the river's ability to faithfully mirror its surroundings is most likely seen. Forests with melaleuca, cypress pine, banksia and scribbly gum line the riverbank and sedges grow thickly to protect the river's edges. Birdlife can be spectacular, with Brahminy kites, black cockatoos, cormorants, honeyeaters and azure kingfishers, to name just a few.

Continuing upstream you'll reach Harrys Hut, a popular camping spot accessible by road. This is about four hours paddling from Boreen Point without detours. Another four hours paddling north takes you to the river's confluence with Teewah Creek. From here, fallen trees make further progress up the Noosa River impossible, but you can continue up Teewah Creek itself for a while. It's quite narrow and with vegetation meeting overhead is a beautiful stretch of paddling.

There are nine riverside camping sites north of Harrys Hut and, except for Camp 3, you can book one for your exclusive use. You'll enjoy a real feeling of wilderness, total quiet at night except for bush creatures and the sound of surf drifting across from the coast.

The view looking south from the Cooloola Sandpatch. Image: Greg Hardwick.

Walking tracks starting from the riverside are well worth following, especially in springtime when wildflowers are blooming. One track leads to the Cooloola Sandpatch, with a great outlook over ocean, lakes and the National Park. From here the fragility of the Cooloola area is very apparent. In the 1960s sandmining had begun, more was on the way (applications for mining leases covered 8ooo hectares of dunes), and developers were eyeing off the Noosa River plain and thinking 'subdivide'. Determined opposition by conservationists saw a complete end to sandmining by 1970, but it took another 20 years before the entire area was permanently protected with National Park status.

Even with this level of protection though, the Noosa River still faces some threats. Teewah Creek is a source of water for settlements in the Cooloola Shire. Increases in population will see more and more water taken from the creek, a decrease in water flows into the Noosa River, and potentially far reaching effects on the ecosystem. A lowering of the water table, and the possibility of seawater entering the aquifer, could have devastating consequences for the river.

Parts of the river system not included in the National Park are subject to agricultural and urban runoff, with impacts on water quality and aquatic and marine life. It's a concern that last year the SEQ Waterways Report Card reduced the freshwater component rating of the Noosa River from B to B minus.

Play your part in protecting the unique values of the river, be a minimal impact visitor, and help the Noosa River remain the cleanest we have.

There's more information including campsite bookings on the EPA website.

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