The Glasshouses, the impressive collection of peaks jutting up from the coastal plain west of the Pumicestone Passage, have plenty to offer if you’re after an outdoor experience. Something mild – a relaxing bushwalk perhaps – or something a bit extreme, like rock climbing. (view google map)
They were named by James Cook (just a lieutenant at the time) as he sailed the tiny Endeavour along the coast in 1770, describing them in his journal as “remarkable for the singular form of their elevation, which very much resembles a glass house, and for this reason I called them the Glass Houses.”
Formed over 25 million years ago, they are the remains of huge volcanoes, now eroded away except for lava flows which hardened inside their vents, leaving an intriguing array of peaks, some squat and rounded, some slender and spire-like.
For the original inhabitants – the Gubbi Gubbi people, who had names for all of the 11 peaks – they were formed in the Dreamtime, and their creation involved a family saga which ends with a despondent father Tibrogargan facing out to sea, his back forever turned to the shamed son Coonowrin who’d deserted pregnant mother Beerwah in a time of danger. Tibrogargan does indeed suggest a massive brooding presence when seen from the east.
Matthew Flinders was the first European to set foot in the area, almost 30 years after Cook sailed past, and climbed Beerburrum after an arduous walk through mangrove and melaleuca swamp.
These days the Glasshouses are much more accessible, many easily reached by foot or bicycle from train stations. Eight of the peaks are enclosed in the Glasshouse Mountains National Park, which is made up of seven detached areas, separated and surrounded by farmland or State Forest, much of which is pine plantation, sadly for biodiversity and exploring interest.
The logical thing for the explorer is to climb some of the peaks and enjoy the panoramic views.
Beerburrum, close to the township Beerburrum on the train line, is easiest and most accessible. There’s a paved if sometimes steep walking track all the way up to a lookout on top, with views over Moreton Bay, even as far as Brisbane on a clear day.
Further north, Ngungun, also close to the train, is another easy climb, with excellent views over Beerwah, Coonowrin and Tibrogargan, taking an hour or two there and back. The track is well worn but becomes a bit rough in parts. There are some steep cliffs so don’t stray too far off the track and if with children keep them closely supervised.
Beerwah – at 556 metres, the highest of all – and Tibrogargan are more challenging. They both have steep, almost vertical faces where rock climbing is popular, but a high degree of skill and appropriate equipment is needed. Both mountains have tracks to the top suitable for moderately fit people with scrambling skills. There are short sections where you need to find handholds, but generally the ascents are fairly easy and safe as long as you keep to the tracks. Be wary of falling rocks, and take particular care when descending, it’s always trickier. Don’t start your walk in the late afternoon – people have lost their way in the dark and been stranded on these mountains – and avoid wet days when the rock is slippery.
It’s no longer possible to climb the eye catching Coonowrin. With steep sides and a narrow profile, it’s also known as Crookneck – Coonowrin’s neck was injured by his angry father in the Kabi Kabi legend. Technical climbing ability is needed to reach the top. Climbers often found the rock crumbly and treacherous, and the mountain is now closed to public access for safety reasons.
You can reach the summits of the lesser known of the Glasshouses – Coochin, Tibberoowuccum, Miketeebumulgrai, Tunbubudla – but you may need scrambling and orienteering skills and local information about access.
All in all the Glasshouses are a real treat for the eco-explorer. Easy to find – there’s good signage to the more popular peaks from Glasshouse Mountains township. Queensland’s EPA website is a good resource for information.
Finally, don’t forget the minimal impact bushwalking mantra – leave only footprints, take only photographs.
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